Craft

High-end stitches: a technical clarification of luxury

What luxury really means, told through the difference between a machine stitch and a hand stitch.

By Safiera Pattipeilohij 2 min read
Hands saddle-stitching a leather piece by hand on a wooden stitching pony
Every load-bearing seam at the atelier is saddle-stitched by hand.

It has become such a pleasure to share stories about the facts and little secrets of making bags that a lot of people might not know.

When I started my journey years ago, learning about leather craftsmanship, I soon noticed that the number one technique used in Holland to sew leather, at this moment, is an industrial heavyweight sewing machine. Many of you will already know that I am always careful about following the masses. Instead I am passionate in my search for authentic paths, and that is where you find the real gems.

What does luxury really mean to you? To me it is authenticity, combined with quality, delicacy and durability.

On my journey I learned the difference between hand stitches and machine stitches, quality-wise. Let me share that knowledge with you.

When a machine stitch breaks, the upper thread and the lower thread both unravel and loosen both sides of the leather. Machine stitches are less time-consuming to produce, and at the same time less durable.

Diagram of a machine stitch: when it breaks, both the upper and lower threads unravel

A hand stitch, when done right, is a very high-quality stitch. When a hand stitch, the saddle stitch, breaks at one point, the rest of the stitch remains intact, which also makes it easier to repair. It is used by only a few brands in the world, because of how time-consuming it is.

Diagram of a hand, or saddle, stitch: when it breaks at one point, the rest of the stitch holds

Our exclusive handbags are passionately stitched by hand. At the atelier, hand stitches are used for the sides that carry the heavy weight. It takes a little more time, but it is made with the utmost love, care and passion.

Love, Safiera

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